Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, which means I make a small commission at no extra cost to you if you kindly choose to book via my links.
The South West city of Exeter in Devon is celebrating its fifth anniversary of becoming a UNESCO City of Literature. It has a 1,000 year unbroken history of making books and has popularised reading since the 13th century, so it’s a must-visit for any book lover.
| Paid partnership |
The city is full of beautiful historic buildings and there is so much to explore. I visited for two days to explore some of the literary hotspots in Exeter so I’ve put together this itinerary to help you enjoy a fantastic city break.
Read on for some of the best literary things to do in Exeter and more.
Fun things to do in Exeter
There is so much to do in Exeter that you could easily spend longer than two days there. The first thing to do when you arrive is to pick up one of the Exeter Literary Maps in a visitor centre, library, book shop, or hotel.
This map will guide you around the literary landmarks in the city and tell you more about its UNESCO City of Literature status.
Grab a book at the Penguin book vending machine
Whether you’ve forgotten a book to read during your trip, or you need something to keep you occupied on your way home, pay a visit to the Penguin book vending machine at Exeter St David’s train station. The book vending machine is full of new titles and there are plenty of genres to choose from.
The idea was inspired by Sir Allen Lane. He was waiting at Exeter St David’s station to visit his friend Agatha Christie and didn’t have a book to read.
At the station, only Victorian reprints and magazines were available so he decided that everyone should have access to reasonably priced, high quality books, no matter where they were. Because of this, he launched the Penguin publishing company and the paperback book was invented.
Exeter Cathedral
In the centre of Exeter is its magnificent cathedral. The building is stunning from both the outside and the inside.
I visited on a sunny day and there were lots of people enjoying the green outside the cathedral, eating lunch and sunbathing. There was a really lovely atmosphere and it would be a great place to enjoy a couple of chapters of a good book.
Inside, the vaulted ceiling is incredible and there’s lots to see. There’s a £7.50 admission fee for adults and you can spend as much time here as you like.
There is a tour around the cathedral which is included in the admission fee. The tour takes place at various times throughout the day and lasts for around an hour.
Check out the independent book shops in Exeter
Don’t bring a book with you on your trip to Exeter – you’ll be spoilt for choice once you get here! Exeter has some of the most incredible independent book shops I’ve seen.
First up, I visited Book Bag in the McCoys Arcade, just off Fore Street. The arcade itself is well worth a visit. As well as Book Bag, you’ll also find a guitar shop and a vintage clothing shop.
A wide range of fiction and non-fiction books are available and it’s a social place where you can meet new people. They also run regular events like book launches and poetry readings.
Book-Cycle is also worth a visit. It is a charity that provides free books for children and helps to reforest England. You can choose up to three books per day and you can choose what you pay for them.
Charity shops Oxfam and Hospiscare also have bookshops in the city.
Free things to do in Exeter
If you want a city break on a budget, there are plenty of free things to do in Exeter. As well as walking and cycling around the city and its surroundings, lots of attractions are free to visit too.
Enjoy the literary artwork at Exeter St David’s Station
Before you leave the station, there’s more to see! A permanent installation of new artwork was unveiled on the footbridge between platforms on 7th March 2024 to coincide with World Book Day.
The artwork was created by local artists Billy Ruffian and Jack Ratcliff to honour Devon’s rich literary history. See if you can spot Tarka the Otter, War Horse, and Murder on the Orient Express.
Explore Gandy Street
Gandy Street, in the city centre of Exeter, is a narrow cobbled street with the historic RAMM building at one end. The street is said to have inspired Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter books as JK Rowling was a student in Exeter and spent plenty of time here.
The street is home to vintage clothing stores, independent shops, and quirky bars.
Free walking tour of Exeter
Red Coat Tours offer free walking tours every day from April until September. Each tour has a different theme and explores the city.
I went on the Markets, Merchants, and Mariners tour which I really enjoyed. It tells the story of Exeter’s commercial history and the colourful characters who have shaped it.
There’s no need to book, just turn up to the Hooker Statue on Cathedral Green at the right time. You’ll recognise the guide as they’ll be wearing a red coat.
Royal Albert Memorial Museum (RAMM)
The Royal Albert Memorial Museum, affectionately known as RAMM, is a museum and art gallery in the city centre. They have permanent displays as well as seasonal exhibitions.
Here, you can learn more about the history of Exeter and Devon, as well as about the rest of the world. I really enjoyed the natural sciences collections and learning more about other cultures around the world.
Wander round Exeter Quayside
Exeter Quayside is one of the prettiest areas in the city. It’s a mix of historic and contemporary architecture and has antiques shops, pubs, and restaurants.
While you’re here, you can also visit Custom House which houses displays and artefacts telling the story of the development of Exeter’s Quayside. They also have a literary programme here called Quay Words with writing workshops and events throughout the year.
Exeter Library
Exeter Library is home to a whopping 150,000 books on over 1 kilometre of book shelves! There are also quiet spaces to read and a cafe where you can grab a coffee.
Outside you’ll find Rougemont Gardens, a perfect reading spot.
Where to eat in Exeter
If you’re looking for somewhere to eat with a literary twist then head to the Turk’s Head on the High Street. This 700-year old pub is said to be a favourite haunt of Charles Dickens and it’s thought that he found inspiration for some of his characters here.
Not only can you sample a Devon cider or a craft beer here but they also offer fried chicken and burgers provided by Eat the Bird. I tried the chicken tenders and they were delicious.
Boutique hotels in Exeter
During my trip to Exeter City of Literature, I stayed at Hotel du Vin, a boutique hotel just a short walk from the city centre. I stayed in the Thomas Suite and it is one of the most beautiful rooms that I’ve stayed in.
There was a huge double bed with a seating area and flatscreen TV and then a separate area behind with a bath. There was also an en-suite toilet room, a shower, and a little getting ready area with a mirror and sink.
As well as the gorgeous rooms, Hotel du Vin also has an outdoor swimming pool, and a bar and restaurant. I really enjoyed the outdoor pool as it was very quiet – I actually had it to myself at one point!
The food in the restaurant was incredible. It is French-inspired and full of flavour.
I chose a three course meal starting with French onion soup, followed by spiced lamb rump with cous cous, and finished off with a lemon tart. I also went with a bottle of the house rose wine.
If you’re looking for dog friendly accommodation in Exeter then look no further than Hotel du Vin as they welcome dogs. I didn’t take Alfie with me this time but I’m sure he would have loved it too.
As well as popping into the Turks Head for a pint, you can also stay here. They have six hotel rooms above the pub with cosy interiors and charming original features.
The Turk’s Head is right in the centre of Exeter, close to the cathedral, so it’s an ideal base for exploring the city. They offer two types of room: comfy double and cosy double so you can choose which one suits you best depending on your budget.
